Carpentry

Coat Hooks 

Nov/ Dec 2016 (ongoing)
My house design laser engraved on to a piece of recycled beech pallet wood.
 (see Laser Cutting for more examples) 

The engraving works best on the hard wood.
This wood has quiet thin depth so I thought only suitable

 for hanging small items, hence my intention was this is for keys.


Aug 2014 - July 2015

I worked at Danbury Motors for 11 months making the wooden interiors for the T2 VW Camper Van. The shell of the van were made in Brazil and imported by the company owners.


 Here are a selection of new vans, and those being serviced. I estimate that I have made 70  interiors for the T2. New vans have a starting price from £33,849 upwards.

There are two designs available in a range of colours and finishes to the customers desires.

This week I have been working on 3 units. I general make 2 units a week, including other pieces wardrobe, double seat & 'B' unit depending on the customers order.
Orange Gloss 4 seater van interior
Walnut 4 seater interior
Part built 5 seater interior
These are the panels that I begin with.
This is part built - the fridge, stove & water bottle in place.

I build the units fitted the gas, water pumps, fridge and associated electrics.
Three of the smaller units for a 5 seater T2 Camper Van.
I needed to fit the tinware on these units to protect the surfaces near to to Stove.
White, green and orange, fridge, sink and stove in each unit.
Part built 4 seater unit, in White
Larger unit for 5 Seater T2 Camper Van in Oak. This was made for an unsold van.
A new customer want this unit but with a oven.
I had to take part of the unit apart and re-build it
The middle cupboard, shelf and stove removed
This is a set of doors I made for old stock front panel. Taking the measurements from another set of doors, I cut each. Measured and cut the location for the door catch. The edges I routed and attached the T edges.

The middle panel was the only door already made.

June 2014

I've just completed 3 weeks in a temp job making wood crates, designed to house things like aircraft parts when they need to be checked and calibrated.

Me with 32 boxes I made in just over four & a half hours 


The boxes are made from panels of plywood and softwood, nailed gunned together, the catches riveted in place. Then constructed into boxes from the panels.

I made a few other boxes but this was the majority of the work. I'd not used a nail gun before, 1000's of nails later I'm feeling pretty confident with a nail gun and have the aching muscles to prove it!

June 2014

Spent 2 days helping out in the last stages of the build, General Snagging - finishing, filling painting & drilling locators for the adjustable shelves

Built in MDF and painted, with adjustable shelves in the side units

Almost complete, central handles to be attached



May 23rd-26th

Boxing in the boiler & making more storage space

Re-used the door, and built the extra cupboard for shelves to its left.
I've then fitted the two shelving units under & to the left of the boiler

Framework to box it in, (following the boilers manual)
 I used a piece of stud for the upright as the cupboard door is quite heavy. 

Boiler, messy wall and the remains of a much larger cupboard   

May 2014

I've been working on converting a damaged stripped pine door, to use as much as possible, for a cupboard to fit under my clients bathroom sink. 


The finished cupboard, the marine ply surface will be decorated by my client. All the woods surfaces I gave a coat of a Worktop finish to protect it. Really enjoyed working on this and all the thinking it has involved......




Before
(cut in half to transport)


After
Before
Ready to install & make
 the final adjustments












After
Before
 



March/April 2014


Dry run to ensure everthing fits!

Dry run, cupboard in place
Veiwed from above



3/4 veiw with shelves
with door taped in place
Shelves, from old floor boards
Mortise joint for the front
of the cupboard.
Before & after

 
Part sanded



Recycled floor boards from BWRP. (Bristol Wood Recycled Project)They had a layer of a rubbery glue used to stick door the previous floor covering. With the roughest grade paper they soon cleaned up to reveal the woods grain. 





The bottom half of the door
3/4 veiw
(Held together with tape)
The front is a reclaimed door, and the front of the
cupboard made from reclaimed floorboards.
The base is a section left from the original door.

From the front
 
This is the top part of the door cut down
 & reassembled close to the size I want
 for the side panels. Here it is unglued 
& needs the mouldings reattached.
I was able to cut out most of the damaged wood





The damage was cause when the door had been removed
to help move things into the new house.
It fell and the top of the panel took a bad blow.
I replaced this door and then we wanted to try and
use the good parts of the door for something else.



April 2014

 Here I hung two doors, one to replace to previous door the other where the door way had been blocked up and revealed. 

The two new fitted oak doors


The new door, viewed from inside the front room.
The door opens into the corridor as the room,
at present, is used for storing work equipment.
The doorway into the front room had been blocked up.
The builder had rerevealed the old opening &
I fitted the lining and new door




Old door

Replacing the Damaged door

(Which I made into a under sink bathroom cupboard)

The stripped pine door in my clients new house was damaged badly as they moved into their home. Consequently we went out and found a door to replace it. This was the most suitable door but one side was scorched, probably with a hot air blower. I set about sanding back the charred spots.



I worked into the corners with my detail sander and belt sander on the larger areas.
The scorch marks did have the look of a Dalmatian about them.

I removed an old catch
Filled the hole with a small block of wood
& then covered it with a thin section
I took the door handle and plate from the old door &
then fitted to it replacement. The doors in this house all match
with the same fittings

Door hung, I fitted the door a few weeks ago, but intended to return to finish it.
It's not obvious that the surface was so burnt, the door will often be left open, much this side will be faced up against the wall. Apart from being a good size and having similar mouldings to the original we knew this side would not be seen much, (the door was cheap because of the scorch marks) It worked out well.
.
The good side of the door, open as it will often be.

The Piano Stool

When my clients moved into their new house the removal men took the living room door off it's hinges to move things in more easily. However the door was not propped up very well and it fell on to a piano stool knocking out the top of one panel and a handle on the stool was been broken in two.

The broken handle, I gave this to Nick Hammond and asked him to turn me another in beech
http://nickhammond.co.uk/
The beautifully turned new handle, which I fitted back in place.
http://nickhammond.co.uk/

For Christmas at BWRP several volunteers got together in the Workshop and had a go at making a picture frame
The wood was rebated on one edge before we started. We then had the choice of cutting it with square corners or at mitres, all cut by hand
Nice piece of reclaimed timber!
The back. Mitres cut and clamped whilst gluing

Frame to fit into window for a blackout

To convert a room into a photographic dark room for Black & White development.

The frame will be covered in blackout fabric.
This side will fit into the window.
This side will face into the room.
The frame in 'L' in profile so that if there
is any light spill it will be diverted sideways.


Steel Jig for Adjustable Shelves for BWRP

This a steel Jig I made for setting out the
position for adjustable shelves on a bookshelf.
One side hooks over the side of the front of the
upright to ensure it registers in the same postion.
View from the underside


Birch Plywood lampshades with lazer cut Bat design


The lamp shade will the siloutte of the bats
being picked out by the light

Storage for Recycling boxes

This is my design and construction to store the two
recycling boxes.The exterior is tanilised wood recycled
from Glastonebury Festival,from BWRP.
The interior shelves I've used pallet wood.
This is the unit in sections, ready to assemble for the client.

Timber Frame Construction

From the 7th-10th May I spent working for Smiths Carpentry Ltd, as an trainee carpenter. Constructing Timber Framed Flats for student accommodation in Clifton Bristol. We started with the DPC and attaching the Sole Plate. Once the Timber frames arrived they went up incredibly quickly. It was a good experience but I don't have the strength to consider this the right job for me.


Over view of the site, after 4 days
From above including the fall sacks

Interior walls between the
flats faced in OSB board.
Panels going up
Exterior frames with blue
weatherproofing layer
The Timber Frames arrived by lorry
and were lifted closer to the site by crane

First day spent laying the Sole Plate

Furniture making at Bristol Wood Recycled Project (BWRP)


Adjustable bookshelves. These are made from recycled Scaffold planks.
I try to volunteer once a week at BWRP & often work in the workshop
make a varity of pieces of furniture from Scaff and pallet wood.

Garden Planters

Here are two planters I have been working on in a private garden. They are made from new Scaffolding planks, working in the cold and sometimes wet weather of this March
Basic construction complete,
the large piece of trellis fitted into the corner post in a routed out chanel.
The two planters almost complete,
screwed together and then the heads hidden with dowels.
Additional trellis spans across the bottom section of the garden

Under Stairs Cupboard
I have recently made this door from tongue and groove board, with a fluted bead in the timber, to match the panelling in the period house. After two weeks to acclimatise a I fitted it with T hinges.
Front
Back, I added another bracing
timber at the top of the door

Since mid August I have been volunteering about once a week at Bristol Wood Recycling Project. http://www.bwrp.org.uk/
25th January 2013

We (6 volunteers) Tommy and Neil, helped build a sheltered space to de-nail wood for re-sale.

Clearing the site first
Tommy, Paul and Pricilla
The four corner posts erected, next the roof joists
Far right is Sharon who is filming the Project for a community film
This involves going out in the van to help make deliveries and going to make site collections. Back at BWRP we sort through the wood, making good for re-sale, or for recycling for chipping or waste for bio fuels etc. I've also helped to make planters from recycled Scaffold planks.


Feb to Dec 2012

Here is a selection of my Carpentry since starting my Level 2 Diploma at SGS College

The final practical test. 18 hours long, but not all at once!


Completed test!
Door hung
Architrave and
barge board in place
Door handle and lock fitted


Frame leveled and fix to the wall, and the cladding attached
Stud work complete ready to lift into place to level
Initial stages the main frame is braced and working
out the correct positions for the noggins

Boxing in a soil pipe

Frame built around the soil pipe
Then boxed in using plywood, cut around
the pipe with a coping saw in two halves

Repair to moulding

Finished repaired
Much of the shape carved to match profile
New section of wood, with pencil marks of what I need to carved away
Moulding with damaged section cut away

Loft Hatch and Water Tank

Loft hatch and water tank side view
Water Tank on platform built up in a pyramid shape to distribute the weight of the tank.
My roof hatch. Made the hatch to fit between the trusses with 10 mm clearance. Made box screwed noggins between trusses then fitted box with wedges and screwed in place with a 12 mm under hang for plasterboard.
From below

Roof Trusses

Barge board and Fascia
Compound mitre cut on the barge board and 45 degree mitre on the Fascia.
Barge board cut and attached to the ladders
I had to extend each truss so that I would be able cut everything to the same length and then attach the Fascia. I used the blue chalked string to mark it on before cutting them to length.
Ladders built and attached to the end truss to from the verges.
(You can just see Andy in this photo who I have been working with.) My ladder is on the far side.


Noggin cut and attached to the double
trusses before fitting the Vellux window
Diagional braces at 45 degrees, (or less)



All the trusses plumb and braced. Each brace was marked against each other before securing to the trusses to ensure they were kept at 400 mm centres
Both end trusses with temporary braces, the other truss plates are at 400 mm centres
End truss, plumb and temporarily braces to the wall, nailed to the truss plates, in turn which are nailed to the wall plate. The end trusses are set back 50 mm from the parallel wall plate to ensure air circulation in the roof

Stairs

The handrail, balustrade and stairs finished, from the side
The finished stairs and balustrade
Fitting the last balustrade and the spacers either side
The hand rail and capping in place, the last balustrade
about to go in
Chris, Ade and Brett hard at work?
The assembled, wedge and glued stairs,
(laid on their wall string side)
First 3 assembled steps and newel post
Centre steps wedged and glued then riser screwed
to the back of the step
Dry run of 4 steps and 3 risers,
from back
From front, laid on the outer string


Dry assembly of two lower steps
and risers
from front

Newel routed for the lower step and riser
String fitted to Newel
String tenon and mortise in Newel
Newel post with housing for string mortise
Mortise, cut with a mortiser
Routing out the stair strings
The jig for the stair strings,
set up to make the first cut

Door frame with Scarfe repairs.

Scarfe glued in place & planed back
Scarfe cut and fitted
Cleaned up

Old mortise repair
The 3 repairs before planing down























Old hinge repair removed,
cleaned up & scarfe cut to fit.
This repair was planed with
the rebate plane to get up
against the rebate edge


The old door frame and it's repairs

Joist Flooring, hung on joist hangers

Joists nailed in place, to the joist hanger
Chris inserting the joists into the joist hangers

Pole plate level and screwed to the wall


The joist hangers nailed on pole plate

The back of the joist hangers

















Small return section of joist hangers
on the pole plate











Upright secured in place, and the double pole
plate is laid at the bottom of the corner



Cleared Unit
Removing the old flooring and joists


Some of the removed kitchen units
Before I started

Kitchen Worktops (I worked with Chris Townsend on this)

Worktop in place. (We cut them over long,
because they will be re-cut by future students).
Two tops brought together and secured
with dog bone fixings, on the underside.
The two halves lined up before joining
(close up) Dog bone cut with
router using the jig
Jig set up

Worktop before setting up the jig and routing 2nd half


First edge cut
Chris ready to start routing out the
first cut on our worktop

Wall units

All the units fitted
Cornice and pelmit fitted
Both wall cabinets mounted, level &
attached to the corner post
The large wall cabinet I hung on the
wall brackets but the smaller
the attached fittings were broken
so I used a split batten instead.

Base units

Plinth cut and scribed to fit under the the units, then attached to the unit legs.
Doors added, due to the limited number of fittings, I only did a few.
More base units checking the levels as I progressed and then securing to the walls.
Base units attached to corner post
First checked the floor, marked level on wall
then introduced the base cabinets.
Ensured that each unit was level.

2nd Fix

Skirting

External & Internal Mitres

I found this relatively easy to do

Door ironmongery

Lock, handle and catch plate
fitted to the door lining
Lock fitted, into the frame
of the door















Architrave

Architrave & door stop attached

Door & lining

Door hung, hinges cut into the door the
lining. 2mm tolerance between door & frame


Door lining braced to hold square.
Held square to the stud frame with wedges

Stud walls

Assembling stud on the floor
the upright centres at every 400mm


Stud wall assembled and errect.

Flooring on floor joists