Level 2 Diploma in Carpentry for Construction

 Here is a selection of my Carpentry since starting my Level 2 Diploma at SGS College, from the end of Feb.to Dec. 2012

The final practical test. 18 hours long, but not all at once!


Completed test!
Door hung
Architrave and
barge board in place
Door handle and lock fitted


Frame leveled and fix to the wall, and the cladding attached 
Stud work complete ready to lift into place to level
Initial stages the main frame is braced and working
out the correct positions for the noggins

Boxing in a soil pipe

Frame built around the soil pipe
Then boxed in using plywood, cut around
 the pipe with a coping saw in two halves

Repair to moulding

Finished repaired
Much of the shape carved to match profile
New section of wood, with pencil marks of what I need to carved away
Moulding with damaged section cut away

 Loft Hatch and Water Tank

Loft hatch and water tank side view
Water Tank on platform built up in a pyramid shape to distribute the weight of the tank.
My roof hatch. Made the hatch to fit between the trusses with 10 mm clearance. Made box screwed noggins between trusses then fitted box with wedges and screwed in place with a 12 mm under hang for plasterboard.
From below

Roof Trusses

Barge board and Fascia
Compound mitre cut on the barge board and 45 degree mitre on the Fascia.
Barge board cut and attached to the ladders
I had to extend each truss so that I would be able cut everything to the same length and then attach the Fascia. I used the blue chalked string to mark it on before cutting them to length.
Ladders built and attached to the end truss to from the verges.
(You can just see Andy in this photo who I have been working with.) My ladder is on the far side.


Noggin cut and attached to the double
trusses before fitting the Vellux window
Diagional braces at 45 degrees, (or less)



All the trusses plumb and braced. Each brace was marked against each other before securing to the trusses to ensure they were kept at 400 mm centres 
Both end trusses with temporary braces, the other truss plates are at 400 mm centres
End truss, plumb and temporarily braces to the wall, nailed to the truss plates, in turn which are nailed to the wall plate. The end trusses are set back 50 mm from the parallel wall plate to ensure air circulation in the roof

Stairs

The handrail, balustrade and stairs finished, from the side
The finished stairs and balustrade
Fitting the last balustrade and the spacers either side
The hand rail and capping in place, the last balustrade
 about to go in 
Chris, Ade and Brett hard at work?
The assembled, wedge and glued stairs,
(laid on their wall string side)
First 3 assembled steps and newel post
Centre steps wedged and glued then riser screwed
 to the back of the step
Dry run of 4 steps and 3 risers,
 from back
From front, laid on the outer string


Dry assembly of two lower steps
 and risers
from front

Newel routed for the lower step and riser
String fitted to Newel
String tenon and mortise in Newel 
Newel post with housing for string mortise
Mortise, cut with a mortiser
Routing out the stair strings
The jig for the stair strings,
set up to make the first cut

Door frame with Scarfe repairs.

Scarfe glued in place & planed back
Scarfe cut and fitted
Cleaned up

Old mortise repair
The 3 repairs before planing down

 
Old hinge repair removed,
cleaned up & scarfe cut to fit. 
This repair was planed with
 the rebate plane to get up
 against the rebate edge


The old door frame and it's repairs

Joist Flooring, hung on joist hangers

Joists nailed in place, to the joist hanger
Chris inserting the joists into the joist hangers

Pole plate level and screwed to the wall


The joist hangers nailed on pole plate

The back of the joist hangers

















Small return section of joist hangers
 on the pole plate 











Upright secured in place, and the double pole
 plate is laid at the bottom of the corner



Cleared Unit
Removing the old flooring and joists

 
Some of the removed kitchen units
Before I started

Kitchen Worktops (I worked with Chris Townsend on this)

Worktop in place. (We cut them over long,
 because they will be re-cut by future students).
Two tops brought together and secured
with dog bone fixings, on the underside.
The two halves lined up before joining
(close up) Dog bone cut with
router using the jig
Jig set up

Worktop before setting up the jig and routing 2nd half


First edge cut
Chris ready to start routing out the
 first cut on our worktop

Wall units

All the units fitted 
Cornice and pelmit fitted
Both wall cabinets mounted, level &
 attached to the corner post
The large wall cabinet I hung on the
 wall brackets but the smaller
 the attached fittings were broken
 so I used a split batten instead.

Base units

Plinth cut and scribed to fit under the the units, then attached to the unit legs. 
Doors added, due to the limited number of fittings, I only did a few.
More base units checking the levels as I progressed and then securing to the walls.
Base units attached to corner post
First checked the floor, marked level on wall
 then introduced the base cabinets.
Ensured that each unit was level. 

2nd Fix

Skirting

External & Internal Mitres

I found this relatively easy to do

Door ironmongery

Lock, handle and catch plate
 fitted to the door lining 
Lock fitted, into the frame
of the door















Architrave

 Architrave & door stop attached

Door & lining

Door hung, hinges cut into the door the 
lining. 2mm tolerance between door & frame


Door lining braced to hold square.
Held square to the stud frame with wedges

Stud walls

Assembling stud on the floor
 the upright centres at every 400mm

 


Stud wall assembled and errect.

Flooring on floor joists